You may have been aspiring to live the van life but it is important to make sure it is really right for you. The easiest and most prudent way to do this is to HIRE. Hiring a van is not about finding the right layout as such, it is more about the whole aspect of travelling, camping, touring and living the outdoor life to ensure it is right before you invest your hard earnt monies.

Once you are in the position to start looking, consider which type of van will best suit your needs. There are 3 main types to consider.

i) Campervan - still looks like a van, also known as panel van and van conversion

ii) Semi-Integrated - this is what we call a motorhome, typically still a van at the front and coach built on the back. Two main types here… Over-Cabs with bed above the cab and Low-Profile with sleek level roofline.

iii) Fully-Integrated - known as A-Class in the UK, some refer to them as RVs (Americanism). These are coach built all the way round and some say they look like library buses (for those that are old enough to remember).

Each of these have their merits and whilst they can affect budget, you need to ensure which type best services your envisaged needs.

For example, many people buy campers because they are easy to drive, can sit on the driveway and on the face of it are cost effective to run. Day trips and weekends away are great but when going further afield for longer durations, living space, storage and usable features like showers and toilet come into play. The space in a camper can become very small very quickly and it may be you are more suited to a coach built. This is fundamental to decide at the earliest stages so you don’t waste time looking at things that are not suitable.

This is often an overlooked aspect when buying! Depending on when you passed your test you may or may not have the appropriate category on your driving licence to drive the vehicle of your dreams.

If you have a ‘Category B’ licence then you are able to drive vehicle with a GVW up to 3500Kgs. With a ‘Category C1’ licence you are permitted to drive up to 7500Kgs.

Although checking the GVW to ensure it is suitable for your licence you must also check that any additions you make, like if buying brand new and adding AUTOMATIC GEAR BOX, doesn’t take you over into the next weight class. Some vans rated at 3500Kgs, when opting for an Auto version, this can take you up to 3650Kgs! On a Category B licence you’d now be unable to drive this legally.

No matter what you have to spend, it is a lot of money to you and you must ensure you are getting what you want.

In real world terms, the better the budget, the newer the van and higher the spec you can treat yourself to.

Often, people can be disappointed and the stress or pressure to then fund the difference can make or break the decision to buy. It can also become the difference between deciding to buy or sticking with the option to HIRE more frequently.

As we all know, the prices of motorhomes are not cheap so if buying something that’s ideally only a few years old you could already be at the thick end of £40k to £60K. The resulting monthly payments of funding this through finance could mean that it is technically cheaper to hire depending on the intended frequency of use.

Because of the cost you’ll invest you need to be getting your monies work back. If it just ends up where its parked as an expensive drive ornament then this is not serving your best needs.

Campers and motorhomes provide a lifestyle that can be scaled to your desires. You don’t have to go wawy every weekend, obvioulsy, but the more frequently you use it the more you get from your investment.

Don’t just look at these vans as a means of that 1 or 2 trips a year be it locally or abroad. These leisure vehicles can be base camps for days out, lodgings when visiting relatives, a quick spontaneous means of cheeky breaks away and add to that adventurous tours on coastal routes and foreign places and you are then in the right mindset to buy.

This is a 64 million dollar question! There are so many to choose from and this is where usually most folk will start to fatigue and get confused.

The simplest way to look at this is following the van choice question in point 2. most vans (not all) are dictated by the REAR layout. Most commonly identified as…

i) Rear bed

ii) Rear kitchen

iii) Rear bathroom

iv) Rear lounge

Some vans may have two rear layouts where a bed is to one side and the bathroom is to the other, hence the comment of most, not all.

This is going to come down to personal choice and how you envisage using the van. Some examples here for food for thought…

BEDS: rear doubles are nice, islands present a home from home feel but twins are good for flexible sleeping arrangements say with kids or some people may not want to sleep close for aspects like snoring and alike. It may be a silly point to make but it can lead to influencing the format that best suits your needs. In the same tone, transverse (side to side) beds make great use of room at the rear, but then you are left with one person climbing over the over in the night to go to the toilet!! Then you have French beds, bunk beds, rear transverse island beds and so on. In Over-Cabs the main bed is high up, do you want to climb up and down in the night, but then such a big bed out the way makes for great use of space in the van. Do your research and be honest with yourself.

LOUNGES: These are fantastic for open layouts and multiple occupants having more usable space during active hours. The draw back of lounges can be limited storage as they have less cabinetry and are lower to the deck, also having to make into a bed, after a hundred times or so of doing it, will it become a chore??

It is easy to get carried away and the more features you aspire to generally the more room is required. This will obviously impact on the size of van you end up looking at.

Budget aside, which will also be affected, the size of van can lead to a storage issue. If you have too big a van and then can’t store it at home you may have to consider off-site storage and this introduces extra cost in fees and possibly insurance.

If you do decide to store at home you need to make sure there are no physical, social or legal restrictions. Ensure you have enough space to access and manoeuvre, check residents have no issues that could lead to complaints and make sure there are no local council directives that may not allow you to park such a vehicle on your drive.

NOTE: If opting for off-site storage, don’t leave that until after buying, check before. Many storage sites have waiting lists and you are not guaranteed to get a pitch locally meaning you may have to travel further a field.

This again is not an obvious initial consideration but it can certainly impact what you end up buying.

A more frugal budget would typically dictate an older type van. Depending on the age, say pre-2016 (or there about) the EURO rating could be of a lower standard than the more current up to date Euro 6 engines that also benefit from the addition of the AdBlue additive.

This engine class is of consideration when looking at aspects of LOW EMISSION zones. So, if you live in one, if you don’t have a Euro 6 engine it could cost you every time you take your van out. If travelling to a low emission zone it needs to be factored into the cost of your travels if your engine is Euro 5 or lower as charges will be incurred. Also, if travelling abroad, say France for example, you need to apply for a Crit'Air sticker. Your engine class will dictate the sticker you can apply for and can restrict what zones you can drive in and out of in certain cities!

A choice you’d think relatively straight forward but there a couple of considerations here of which some are mentioned in previous points in this guide.

In up-to-date vans, both manual and automatics have cruise control so there is less of an argument to be had for that sole feature.

Whilst automatics provide the ultimate leisurely drive some say they are known to be less efficient when undertaking shorter more scenic journeys. The reality is with advancements in technology they are very much the same in efficiency compared with that of a manual gear box.

So, in reality it may come down to just two key aspects…

i) Price - autos are more expensive, anywhere from £3k to £5k more (brand new) depending on the manufacturer. Whilst this initial outlay may be a bitter pill to swallow, on the up side, when it comes to re-sale, automatics are quite sought after as they are less common.

ii) Weight - an automatic gearbox is heavier and will increase the GVW of your chosen vehicle. If you have a C1 licence then this is not an issue but if seeking 3500Kg this could be the deciding factor to stay with a manual.

On that second aspect, there is a side consideration to ponder, if your vehicle is now above 3500Kg this can potentially limit the market potential for re-sale. This, to a degree, contradicts the earlier benefit highlighted. So, whilst some will seek automatics specifically, and they do add value in the 2nd hand market, the audience is narrowed as it will only appeal to those with a C1 licence. It is by no means a deal breaker, just something to be mindful of when you are weighing up all the factors during your buying process.

When doing your research, look and compare the prices offered from dealerships and private sellers. Often, a private seller may be offering a much better deal saving you a reasonable amount of money.

However, private sellers can not provide the support and service that you’d get from a dealership. These benefits could cover for example, finance options, warranties, service packages, pre-sale inspections, aftersales support and more.

In plain terms, a dealer purchase will cost you more. But, the extra peace of mind this can buy you when dealing with a reputable dealership could be worth the extra pennies.

The only advice with some private sales is a) if the deal is too good to be true, it generally is, so beware; and b) if the private price, like for like, is higher, then the benefits from a dealer sale are a no brainer to take advantage of.

One final aspect can be the handover of the vehicle, typically a dealership will spend the time and energy showing a new owner around the van and explaining how the systems work and providing various tips for use. Private sellers can also do this but generally are less inclined to do so and you could be left having to work through the systems in the van on your own, learning by trial & error (& YouTube)!!

When you are at the stage you have the perfect van all lined up, make sure you ask to see any service history. Ask about any outstanding finance, check if there have been any crash repairs and quite importantly what the most recent HABITATION CHECK has reported.

Mechanically, service history and advisories (if any from the MOTs) are important to understand to assess the vehicles condition. However, as a leisure vehicle, the habitation element is just as important. There are gas systems, electric systems, lighting circuits and all manner of other functional elements that you want to ensure are in good working order. Regular habitation check history shows the van will have been looked after. A crucial part of the habitation check is the DAMP REPORT. This is crucial when it comes to aged vans. Damp can be one of the biggest problems if left and is expensive to treat if too far gone. Annual checks keep on top of this element and saves a lot of money and aggravation in the longer term.

Other elements to check are typically physical, look underneath for corrosion, look on the roof for any damage or signs of degrading seals around fitments etc.

Finally, always make sure you test drive it. Paperwork can only tell you so much. Sometimes getting feel for how the van drives (and sounds) can highlight issues or even simply tell you if the van is right for you in how it handles and feels size wise.

Also, as a motorhome/camper (unlike a caravan), you are in the vehicle with all those bits of equipment, all moving while you drive. This means there will be rattles and squeaks. Some are par for the course but some may highlight issues or just things you need to work around. You need to understand what the van you have chosen will sound like so that it does not come as a surprise when you take it way after purchase. Little things like leaving the grill pan in the oven or cutlery in the draws can become irritating. As an ex-hire specialist we do have some suggestions for you on how to handle this :-)

This aspect is quite subjective and whilst it is something that could influence you earlier on in the decision process, it really is not as important as some of the other considerations in this guide.

Just like with cars, there are brands that some folk will aspire to more than others. Some of that is justified in the quality of finish and reputation those brands hold but in equal measure you will be paying a premium for that uplift in luxury.

There can be a brand snob in us all as we just want the best we can get for our money. Various blogs and social media posts will tell you ‘this & that’ about various brands, their plus points and their negative points. The simple fact of the matter is, whatever your budget can extend to, if the van has been looked after then there is no reason why it should be any less prone to issues of damage, failure or alike. Regular maintenance and careful ownership will always extend the life of any vehicle, both on the mechanical side and leisure side.

Yes, be aware of common issues that can be highlighted by these news sources. Taking the positive, being forewarned is to be forearmed and allows you to adopt appropriate maintenance which as a result will keep you in good stead.

It would be remiss to say certain brands have no value. Clearly gven the nature of this consideration some brands are more popular than others and this may be one aspect to think about when buying, if you are looking to re-sell down the line. The more popular the brand and model of van the better chance you have of selling for a fair price in the future.

At the end of the day the van has to be right for you and not someone else so lead with your heart and choose the van that best suits your own needs.

If a van is priced fairly then there may be little room to negotiate.

The old adage here is so true, ‘you don’t get if you don’t ask’.

What is the worst that can happen, you are told NO. Conversation costs nothing so there is nothing lost.

It is though sensible to be respectful. Think in percentage terms, if you were making a cheeky offer and it represent 1% to 5% off the price would you personally find that acceptable if it was your van you were selling? If what you have asked for amounts to 15%/20%/25% etc then you have to think in real terms, that is a big chunk off anyone’s investment and the answer is most certainly going to ‘NO’ or more colourful if dealing privately lol!

It is common sense, if you feel the van is priced at a reasonable level and you make an offer, the closer you are to the asking price then the more sensible the discussion will be to get the van you have set your heart on.

The moral here is, be a little cheeky, it is expected but don’t be disrespectful as this just wastes your time and the sellers time.